Hi Friends,
Welcome to winter (at least here in Maine)! The thermometer read a bracing THREE this morning (wind chill is -10, if anyone out there in the heartland wants to feel sorry for or envy us).
But it is definitely coffee-drinking weather!
I'll be roasting this weekend on Sunday, and we'll deliver and ship Monday (the 21st). We'll do extra for those needing last minute gifts, and if you need coffee before Monday, we have a good assortment here from last weekend.
For my article this week, I will re-run a piece I wrote last year around this time on the joys of espresso - there's still time to go beg Santa for the sweet new La Marzocco GS3 (available here), or just get inspired to roll down to The Royal Bean and watch them coax a beautiful hand-made shot from the machine.
Oh, and speaking of the Bean, tomorrow morning (Saturday), they are having a holiday soirée from 9-12, and I'll be demonstrating my collection of outlandish brewing devices and making Turkish coffee. Join us?
What is Espresso?
The term “espresso” dates back to Italy in the late 1800s, and it refers to coffee made “expressly” for the customer, one cup at a time. Today, espresso can be defined as a brewing method in which hot water is forced under pressure through a bed of uniformly ground coffee that has been compacted to create resistance to the flow of water and heat. This elixir is a concentrated form of coffee that results from the extraction and emulsification of the oils in the coffee – and it is important to note that this is a different form of extraction than conventional brewing methods that depend on a prolonged exposure to water.
The first attempts at using pressure with steam as a way of quickly brewing coffee failed miserably, as steam (at 212+ degrees) is much hotter than the optimum extraction temperature range of 190-205F. It was quickly replaced by water, and the Pavoni company manufactured the first commercially available espresso machines in 1901. Other significant developments followed over the next decade, among them the piston based method of controlling extraction in the 40s and the now ubiquitous E61 grouphead in the early 1960s. In the links at the bottom of the article, you’ll find a much more detailed history of espresso-brewing equipment.
In Italy, proper espresso preparation is said to depend on the perfect combination of the “four Ms”:
Miscela/Espresso Coffee Blends: When you are served good, true espresso, the coffee is typically a blend of coffees that have been combined to achieve a marriage of body, texture, crema and flavor. While some single origin coffees can be prepared in espresso machines with good results, more often than not, “espresso” is a blend of coffees. Contrary to common usage, there is not a type of coffee called an “espresso bean,” nor is there an accepted roast level called an “espresso roast.”
Macinacaffe/Grinder: More than for any other brewing method, uniform grinding is absolutely critical for the preparation of great espresso. An irregular grind will result in uneven extraction, too fine a grind will clog the filter and too coarse a grind yields insufficient extraction. Pro baristas start their days each day “dialing in” their grinders, working to fine tune the degree of grind so that a perfect 25-30 second shot time is achieved.
If you are considering getting into making great espresso at home, start your journey with getting a good grinder (probably a minimum investment of $125), and then worry about the machine – I think too often, people start with the machine and continue with their older blade grinders, and honestly, this won’t ever give you a good result.
Macchina: The espresso machine itself. The higher end machines you see in cafes that are dedicated to good espresso (such as The Royal Bean) are very precise instruments, typically made in Italy, that allow precision control over water temperature, pressure and extraction time used the brew the espresso shots – and then a separate water boiler to generate steam for the milk (the brewing temperature and steaming temperature are different).
For home use, there are a LOT of options, and if you are wanting to produce good espresso at home, you will want to do some research. The links below will provide you with a huge body of articles, reviews and shopping options – and I’m also happy to help you evaluate ideas/solutions if you want to write back. I don’t think it Is necessary to spend a lot of money to get set up for your own kitchen, but you do need to make good choices.
Mano (“hand” in Italian): Mano here refers to the role of the barista and the training of the barista in producing good espresso. It is the barista who works to optimize the grinding of the coffee and tamping it into the portafilter with just the amount of pressure. The barista will observe the timing of the shot and the development of crema in the cup – and then taste the final result to make sure that all these steps are getting the best possible result in the taste of the espresso. Being a good barista is MUCH more than simply going through the motions of putting coffee in a portafilter, pushing it down and pressing a button.
When a good barista labors over his or her machine and prepares your drink with love and care, that shot, cappuccino or latte is worth every penny you pay for it. And in the hands of an uncaring barista, you are frankly getting ripped off.
I hope this article will help you be able to spot the difference.
Some Brief Editorial Comments
In my conversations with people about coffee, I am sad to report that espresso is very substantially misunderstood . . . and I place the blame for this squarely at the door of those businesses that try to use the good name of espresso for commercial gain without going through the effort to make it properly.
In the US, the experience of most people with espresso is through drinks that have been sold to them under the misused names cappuccino and latte. In the traditional definitions of these words, a cappuccino will be composed of equal thirds espresso, steamed milk and microfoam (the foam that results from the proper steaming of the milk). A latte, by contrast, is one third espresso and two thirds steamed milk.
In both cases, the distinctive wonder of espresso should be discernable.
In practice, however, most of these drinks as sold by donut chains, hamburger chains and even large, mainstream, should-know-better coffee chains have WAY too much milk in them. There is no such thing as a 20 ounce cappuccino!!
And then I’d go on to say that in far too many cases, the coffee base of these drinks is not truly well-prepared espresso (as described above)
So on one hand, we have “espresso drinks” out there with so much milk that whatever the coffee is in the drink, it can’t be tasted . . . and then really badly made espresso (or more often, something that is NOT espresso using its good name) that yields the impression that this is not a divine beverage, but more like something akin to used motor oil.
Bliss
Yes, bliss. In my own humble opinion, a well made espresso is a joy to behold. Watching a good shot of espresso develop in a clear shot glass is poetry in motion (see the videos below). The twin senses of smell and taste of a good shot brings forth a rich, sensuality on the pallet that rivals the pinnacle of any food or beverage experience on earth. And, when combined with the proper ratios of well-steamed milk and/or microfoam, cappuccinos and lattes can be the ultimate comfort food.
Some Visuals . . .
Since you aren’t all sitting in front of me, I thought I’d use YouTube as a way of demonstrating the visual side of making good espresso:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qYdqac3qdfg This demonstration, by professional barista Billy Wilson, shows the preparation of espresso from grinding through grooming, tamping and pulling the shots themselves – followed by several examples of latte art.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=px7NTc9g_ds Here, you’ll see a shot of espresso pulled through a bottomless portafilter so that you can see the extraction of espresso in real time. A “portafilter” is the funnel-like device with a handle that holds the coffee and clamps on to the “group,” where the pressurized water comes out of the machine. With a bottomless portafilter, the lower half of the filter is cut off, providing a view of the underside of the filter basket as the coffee comes through it. Baristas use these to look for consistency in the extraction of espresso. (also in the shot is a view of what this would look like using a conventional portafilter)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jp7GMWiDNIs This provides three side views of espresso being brewed into clear shot glasses. Shown are shots that are too fast, too slow and juuuust right. This is a great view of the crema layer of espresso (crema is the thick, aerated foam on the top of the shot).
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QhxvDusY3jk Mark Prince of CoffeeGeek describes the operation of the popular Rancilio Silvia home espresso machine. Many, many people start their home espresso experience with this one, and the video provides you with a nice look at what you are getting into if you make the commitment to make espresso manually at home.
Further Reading . . .
http://www.home-barista.com/espresso-guide.html This site is dedicated to the large community of home-based espresso fanatics, and the article in the link is a long and very comprehensive review of espresso history and preparation.
http://www.wholelattelove.com/buyingguide.cfm This is the pre-eminent online resource for coffee equipment, and the link brings up a large set of articles on every aspect of espresso preparation and equipment selection.
http://www.coffeegeek.com/guides/howtobuyanespressomachine This article, by CoffeeGeek maestro Mark Prince, steps you through all the considerations in buying a home espresso machine. If you are considering making the investment in a home setup, you might want to then jump over to CoffeeGeek’s Consumer Reviews, where users have taken the time to write well-detailed overviews of the experiences with all different types of espresso and brewing equipment. Here, note that you can bring the reviews up by the scores that other users have given the reviews – and the information here is excellent and unbiased.
So, now that you are all experts, I encourage all of those of you who may have been staying away from espresso to go out into the world (to a place that cares) and try a shot or a cap or a latte. A REALLY FUN thing to do is to chat up your local barista while they make your drink. Have them step you through what you are doing. Have them show you their craft. And then sit down in a comfortable chair, close your eyes and begin.
All the best,
Kent
Thanks for your support, folks - enjoy the weekend!
Kent
