A few weeks ago, you all received a cryptic note from me,
inviting you to try a mysterious potion called “Espresso Experimento”. Some of you then put your faith in me,
sight unseen (or more properly, taste untasted), knowing that this was a
worthwhile experiment. For most of
these testers, I then followed up, wondering about their experience and what
they thought of the taste of this recipe.
The truth shall now be revealed.
Of the two botanical species of coffee cultivated
commercially in the world, Coffea Arabica is the one we know best, and all
coffee graded and sold as “specialty coffee” in the US must be Arabica. These coffees are typically grown at
high elevations, they are picked and sorted with care, and they are often sold
as they are, without being blended with lower grade coffee.
The other species is Arabica’s evil twin, Coffea Robusta, a
cheaper, lower-grown variant most commonly used in low-grade blends and instant
coffees. Large corporations and plantation farmers love the stuff, as Robusta
plants have a much higher yield, and it can be farmed at lower elevations using
mechanical picking and processing methods. It also has significantly higher (40% or more) caffeine than
Arabica, so when you encounter “TurboCoffee” at the gas station, that’s what
its made of.
I confess, Espresso Experimento was composed of 15%
Robusta. I hang my head in shame.
Not really. In
Italy, where espresso is the go-to form of coffee, most blends use Robusta to
promote dark, thick crema. When
Robusta is run by itself through an espresso machine, what emerges is an oozing,
beautiful foam that resembles shaving cream. It is exquisite to look at.
And to me, in its raw form, it tastes like a dank, bitter
form of cough syrup.
But this was an experiment I have wanted to try for a long
time. There are better forms of
Robusta to be had (as these were), and as a big fan of espresso, I needed to
understand how this species works in an espresso blend – and whether it was worthwhile
to consider it as a prospect for the future.
The verdict? I
liked the impact on the crema a lot, as it gave the shots noticeable body and
thickness. I liked that it
reminded me of Italian espressos and the experience of ordering a quick shot
standing at a streetside coffee bar.
I liked it in milk, as it added a certain amount of punch, especially in
lattes. I didn’t care for it as a
straight shot, as it added a bitterness and astringency that was more
reminiscent of a darker roasted espresso.
And having satisfied this curiosity, I won’t use it
again. I promise.
One last thing.
I have the sense that most people walk around with the impression that
espresso is an over-roasted, thick, bitter brew that has a place in milk alone,
and that, when consumed as a shot, it generates a face-puckering grimace
similar to that of very cheap tequila.
Please, give good espresso a chance. Stop by The Royal Bean, or come over to our house, and let
us make you a shot of a medium-roasted espresso designed to satisfy rather than
punish you. It is such a nice a
experience.
